Halkirk

halkirk-welcomeHalkirk is the closest town to Braalbin (where William and Barbara MacDonald were born).  All or most of their children were baptised in the parish of Halkirk (surrounding area – every County in Scotland was subdivided for administration and record-keeping purposes into Parishes).

Halkirk is still a small village on the River Thurso in Caithness*, in the Highlands of Scotland. It is within the parish of Halkirk.  Locals claim it to be Scotland’s first planned village.  Knowing how modest we Scots are this has to be the truth!

*Caithness is the northernmost county of the UK mainland – 115 miles north of Inverness. The main road from the south is the A9, which starts at Perth (between Edinburgh and Inverness).

The name “Halkirk” is a Norse form of ecclesiastical origin. In Norse sagas it is “Ha-kirkju.”  In two Latin documents dating from the 13th century, Halkirk is referred to as “Haukirc” and “Haukyrc.”  Gaelic speakers still pronounce it as “Haekirc.”

Going on some pure speculation here: “Ha” might come from the Norse word for “high” which is “ha.”  “Kirk” is one of the oldest Norman surnames, but more importantly also means “church.”  Putting this together would be “High Kirk.”  “High Kirk” is the term used to describe a congregation of the Church of Scotland which used cathedrals.  This at least makes logical sense because at one time Halkirk was the site of the cathedral of the Diocese of Caithness.  However, in the early 13th century, it was moved to Dornoch. The only remains left of the cathedral are legends and perhaps the name “Halkirk.”

With a current population of just under 1,000 people, Halkirk is a calm and peaceful village right out of the pages of a historical novel. Many of the structures have been here for hundreds of years.

scotland-map-for-web

Churches

Halkirk_and_Westerdale_Parish_Church

Halkirk and Westerdale Parish Church

church-halkirk

 

Halkirk--Caithness---Auld-Kirk

Halkirk, Caithness, Auld Kirk

 

 

Ross Institute

catholic-church-halkirk

The Ross Institute structure was completed by the late summer of 1911 at a cost of £1,400.  Interestingly enough, the Architect was Sinclair Macdonald (yes, likely, but no proof) of Thurso. The style of architecture is Scottish Baronial

The clock tower was not included in the original plans.  It was the villagers who requested the clock tower be added.  It was the first public building in Scotland to have an electric clock.

The building was renovated in 1977.

The Ross Institute is managed by the Halkirk Village Council and serves as the village hall where dances, playgroups and indoor bowling are held on a regular basis.

Gerston distillery

Gerston distillery, Halkirk, Scotland

Historic distilleries

Halkirk has been the home for two whisky distilleries.  From 1796 to 1885 it was the Gerston distillery.  Then from 1886 to 1911 it was the Ben Morven distillery – often referred to as Gerston II.

The name Gerston is also the name of a nearby farm (“Gerston Farm”).  It would seem that the name would be of the proprietor, but their name was “Swanson.”  The Swansons operated the Gerston distillery for over 80 years.   The name Ben Morven comes from the highest point in Caithness.

Often refered to as Gerston 1 and Gerston 2, the two distilleries are not really related, but located not far from each other on the River Thurso.

Gerston 1 was a small-sized family owned distillery making high quality, but low volume whisky.  It was quite popular and even savoured by London socialites.  In 1882 the Swanson family closed the Gerston distillery.

In 1886, the newly formed Gerston Distillery Co. built a new industrial scale distillery with 10 times the output of the Gerston 1 distillery. lost-distillery-gerston It was built about 600 yards away from Gerston 1.  In 1897 it was purchased by  Northern Distilleries Ltd. and given the name Ben Morven.  Unable to match the quality and popularity of the original Gerston, the distillery was closed in 1900.

In 2013 The Lost Distillery Company began producing Gerston whisky again.  The company has made an attempt to replicate the original by trying to copy the means used to distill it.  However, reviews are often critical that it has not yet been properly aged.  Time will tell…

Many of the buildings still remain today and are used for housing.

Historical Scotch note:  Of all the distilleries that used to dot the region, only Old Pulteney Distillery located to the 40 year old
east in the Pulteneytown area of Wick, remains active today.  The distillery produces the Old Pulteney single-malt whisky in a number of ages and prices.  If you really enjoy Scotch, then try the 40 year old single malt.  At over $2,000 a bottle you will want to “sip & savour” it! 

 

 

Alexander Keith
Alexander_Keith_India_Pale_Ale

 

 

 

Halkirk is the birthplace of Alexander Keith (1795 to 1873), who later settled in Halifax, Nova Scotia.  He went on to become a politician and popular master brewer. He is known across Canada for his Alexander Keith’s India Pale Ale.

 

halkirk-stone-building

 

hotel-halkirk

Of the two hotels in town, Halkirk Comm is the basic version.

 

the-highland-gun-shop

j-and-g-gas-station

J & G Sutherland Car Dealership and Gas Station.

On his visit to Halkirk, Doug McDonald befriended many people and spoke of the great conversations he had with the people at J & G Sutherland.  He found it quite amusing having a car dealership and gas station all in one!

grocery-store-halkirk

D.Y. Forbes “Licensed” Grocer and Bakery. Also the Press and Journal.

river-thurso

River Thurso runs east and west on the northern side of  Halkirk.

The River Thurso is one of Scotland’s finest ‘fly fishing only’ salmon rivers producing both spring and autumn runs.  Early July may also see a generous run of summer grilse.  The river descends gradually over a distance of 25 miles from Loch More to the sea at Thurso. Between 600 and 1300 salmon and grilse are produced yearly.

ulbster-arms-hotel

The Ulbster Arms Hotel is built of sturdy Caithness stone. It was once the Sinclair family home, but is now a comfortable retreat for shooting, fishing, and holiday stays.

ulbster-fish

Reception desk at Ulbster Arms Hotel.  This is not a “joke fish,” but a salmon from River Thurso.

 

halkirk-post-office

 

Halkirk Highland Games

The first Games started by the Halkirk Athletic Club were held in a field adjoining the new Gerston Distillery (see above) on Saturday the 16th of September 1886.

The first events included: 21lb ball, 16lb hammer, running high leap, vaulting with pole, standing jump, running long jump, hop step & leap, 100 yards, quarter-mile, one mile open and confined to Parish, 3 legged race, obstacle race, sack race, highland fling, tug o’ war (married versus single).

Of note is that in 1889 a road cycle race to Thurso and back, was introduced and in 1957 Gordon MacDonald (no known relation, but likely somewhere up the hill) of Watten set the course record, of 33 minutes 21 seconds.

The Halkirk Highland Games is a popular sporting event in North Scotland. Over £22,000 in prize money is awarded attracting the country’s best amateur and professional competitors. There are 3 Scottish Championship events: 16lb Scots Hammer, 800m open cycle race & 1,600m junior cycle race.

Along with the sporting events, there are plenty of other Scottish attractions such as dancing, pipe and drum parades, and some drinking…

The Games are always held on the last Saturday in July and attract upwards of 4,000 spectators.

Halkirk Honky Tonk!

Northern Nashville Country Music Festival

In 2004 Halkirk got “down home” with its first Northern Nashville Caithness Country Music Festival.  The event is now held each year by turning the Halkirk Indoor Riding Centre into a large Texas style Dance Hall for the weekend, a.k.a. Billy Bob’s of the North.

Country music fans from all around enjoy the 3-day live shows held over Easter Weekend.  It is an international gathering featuring top acts from the USA, Canada, Europe, Ireland and the U.K.  Many local talent and youth bands perform as well. In 2014 it was awarded the Festival of the Year 2014 by the British Country Music Awards.

From scenes like these, old Scotia’s grandeur springs,
That makes her loved at home, revered abroad:
Princes and lords are but the breath of kings,
“An honest man’s the noblest work of God.”
― Robert Burns